Chapter 50: They come and go / Ils arrivent et partent.

They came and they are gone. As I am writing this, I suspect John is back in Calgary and my bro. is somewhere over the Atlantic ocean.

As I was cooking spaghetti sauce, Sarah and Chris showed up. A few good stories and a bottle of whine later, they are both down for the count. Jet lag and alcohol is a dangerous mix.

Tomorrow, I am meeting with one of the locals who's been cranking in Font. for 36 years. The Dude is in his sixties and pull harder then me. I just hope that he gets in a training session tonight or tomorrow morning so I can walk away with a little bit of pride left. Hope is all I have.

Anyway, the temps are good for cranking. Days are cool and nights are cold. The wind is blowing and we are not expecting rain till the end of the week. Perfect.

Ils sont venus et sont repartis. Actuellement, Mathieu est quelque part au dessu de l'ocean Atlantique alors que John est probablement revenue a Calgary.

J'etais tranquillement a cuisiner une sauce a spaghetti quand Chris et Sarah sont apparue de nul part. On va avoir du plaisir. Quelque histoires et une bouteille de vin plus tard, les deux nouveaux arrivants dorment a point, victime du decalage horaire.

Demain, j'ai rendez vous avec un local d'une soixantaine d'annee qui grimpe plus fort que moi. Je vais en avoir plein les bras et surement plus rien dedan demain soir. Je vous tiens au courant.

Chapter 49: Fontainebleau.

France ain't so kind to us so far: We have one climber out of commission, one digital camera in the hands of thiefs, 30 degrees on the red bar and Thailand like humidity. Last night, it rained enough to fill up the Fontainebleau castle 1200m long canal. What is next? I wonder. John is getting here today. Hopefuly, his karma is stronger then the Peartree brother's one.

Yesterday, we visited the Fontainebleau castle. Exuberance and almost disgraceful display of richness awaited us. I'd love to show pictures but like I said earlier, my digital camera is no longer mine. O well. Anyway, many French monarch spent summers at the Font. 'secondary' residence. Learning about each one of them and there influence on the art work was very interesting. I kind of wonder what else the main castle has more then this one. I will make it to Verseille and let you guys know.

Back to the climbing now. As I expected it, bouldering in Font. is a mind numbing experience. With lines everywhere, you get on everything. Slightly overhanging boulders makes it all happen with the fingers. The style is unique, like I've never seen before. Not even 7 months of full time climbing can prepare you for it. All is to be learned from scratch. I got baffled on 5+/6a and pulled 7b+ in a few goes. It comes down to 'feeling' the problem. The bas cuvier is by far my favorite spot. I still have to visit l'elephant, les trois pignons, isatis, le cul du chien and so many more.

Bon, a date, la France joue dur sur le moral des combatants: On a un guerrier hors service, une camera digital en moins, 30 degree au mercure et une humidite comparable a la Thailand. Hier soir, il a plue a en remplir le canal du palais royal de Fontainebleau long the 1200m. John, un ami de Calgary, arrive aujourd'hui. J'espere qu'il nous amenera du beau temps dans ses bagages. Umm, il s'en vient de Londre donc faudra pas trop espere.

Hier, nous avons visite le chateau Royal de Fontainebleau. Richesse et exuberence a en perdre la raison. J'aimerais bien aime prendre des photos mais ma camera digital a trouve nouveau proprietaire. Bien entendu, fallait bien que je me la fasse vole. Bienvenue en France. Bon, peut importe. Plusieurs monarche Francais on reside au chateau tout au long de l'histoire. Il fut tres interessant d'apprendre comment chacun ont influence les courants artistiques des oeuvres d'art du chateau. Si Fontainebleau fut une 'residence' secondaire, je dois absolument alle faire un tour a Verseille.

Retour a l'escalade maintenant. Fontainebleau est absolument superbe meme si les conditions sont loins d'etre exceptionelles. Les blocs sont partout. Des lignes a profusions. Le style de grimpe est completement different de tout ce que j'ai vue jusqu'a date. Meme 7 mois de grimpe temps plein ne peuve preparer a ce qu'on retrouve ici. C'est une question de 'sensation'. On me l'avait bien dit mais bon, il faut en faire l'experience soit meme.

Chapter 47: The verdict / Le verdict.

O well, nothing is broken but no climbing for a while for 'le Deux'. It is a very bad twisted ankle. At the moment, what used to be an articulation can be entered into a pumkin contest. It is big. Getting a pair of crutchess was a test of will power and patience. WoW! Lot's of stories to tell on that one.

Bon, et bien, rien de casse mais une tres tres mauvaise entorse pour le frere. Pas de grimpe pour longtemps. L'articulation est enorme et commence a prendre de belles couleurs. J'ai juste hate a demain, ca va etre encore plus abtrait.

Chapter 48: Here we go.../ On y va...

Hi all,

We are in France, my Bro. and I but not all are healthy: Second day, third problem, Math. mangled his right ankle. This morning, we are testing the French health care system. Will keep you all posted.

Bon, nous sommes en France mais la sante n'est pas au rendez-vous: Deuxieme jours de grimpe, troisieme probleme et le frere se defait la cheville. Ce matin, on fait un test du system de sante Francais. Je vous tiens tous au courant.

Chapter 47: Not much to report / Pas grand chose de differents.

Not much to report except that it's been raining for the last 4 days. We might see a bit of sun tomorrow. For sure, the pics surrounding us will be wearing a coat of white. It get seriously cold at night.

My shoulder is still bothering me. I made a lot of progress but all seems to stagnate at the moment. A bit frustrating. Anyway, I am still optimistic that it will be ready to go for France. That is in two and a half weeks. Wow, time goes by so fast.

Pas grand chose de nouveau en Suisse. Ca fait maintenant 4 jours en ligne qu'il pleut a boire debout. On nous annonce un peu de soleil pour demain. Quand les nuages se disperseront, on devrait voir du blanc sur les pics qui nous entourent. Il fait serieusement froid la nuit.

Mon epaule me fait encore souffrir et meme s'il faisait beau, je ne pourrais pas grimper. Les progres furent tres rapide au debut de la rehabilitation mais actuellement, le tout stagne. Un peu frustrant mais bon, qu'est-ce que je peux faire d'autre. Je reste optimiste et espere que le tout sera rentre dans l'ordre pour la France.

Chapitre 46: Happiness at work - Des gens heureux.

Voici une photo du chantier de construction pas trop loin du camping. Des gens tres fier de leur profession de travailleur de la construction. Les gars sifflent, sourissent et saluent les automobilistes au passage.

Sur l'heure du diner, les gars se font du B.B.Q. et entretiennent leurs 'jardin'.

This is a picture of the construction site not to far from are campground. The workers very pround of their profession. They are always smiling and saluting people driving by.

During lunch time, the boys are cooking on the B.B.Q and take care of the 'garden'.

Chapter 45: It had to happen...

Little riddle this morning:

When a climber is on the road, what is it that is harder to accept then a week of rain, happens when it is beautiful outside and makes minutes feels like hours?

Then answer: An injury.

I have to accept it, there is no other way around it. My left shoulder is very unhappy about it's working condition. I had to say, it's been pulling overtime since January. Of course, it complained a bit through the last six months but I decided to ignore the requests. At the moment, it is impossible for me to ignore the protest. It hurts, even at night.

O well, I remain optimistic. The plan is to get better before the troops from Calgary get to France for the final assault in Fontainebleau. I found an awesome physio who accepted to help me rehabilitate. I'll keep you posted.

Joined are a few pictures taken in Zurich.

Finally, here a super cool line that we found. We always walk right pass it. Last time around, we gave it a second look and decide to give it a go. So good.

Chapitre 45: Y fallait bien que ca arrive...

Petite enigme ce matin:

Pour un grimpeur en voyage, qu'est-ce qui est plus difficile a accepter qu'une semaine de pluie, se produit toujours quand il fait beau et transforme les minutes en heures?


La reponse, une blessure.

Je dois me resigner a accepter que mon epaule gauche est tres insatisfaite de ses conditions de travailles. Faut dire qu'elle a fait du supplementaire depuis la fin janvier. Bien sur, il y a eue plusieurs protestations tout au long des dernier six mois mais bon, j'ai fait que la sourde oreille. Actuellement, il m'est impossible d'ignorer ou de faire la sourde oreille: Ca fait mal, meme la nuit.



Bon, Je garde le moral. L'objectif est de guerir avant que les troupes de Calgary debarquent en France pour donner l'assault aux blocs de Fontainebleau. Je me suis trouver une super Physio qui m'aide dans ma rehabilitation. Je vous tiens au courant.
J'ai join quelque photos prisent lors de mon sejour a Zurich.



Ca, c'est Fay. Gros bebe gatee.

Chapter 44: Grab it...

Sorry for the late post, I spent the last few days is Zurich desguised as a tourist. Nice city with old history. In the beginning of the 20th centurie, it was culturaly, technology and socialy one of the most advanced city if the Europe. Somewhere between St-Peter's churh and the University, someone came up with the idea that every child should have access to free education. In one of the side street, Lenin was brewing the Russian revolution while a few doors down, Voltaire and his friend were cooking up the French one. The University librarie was the biggest of it's kind and the train station had no rival with its 6 train tracks departing for all destinations.

It is fantastic to be here, in Magic Wood, in Zurich, in Europe, in South Africa. It is fantastic to be on the road. I am overwhelmed by the amount of people that I meet, the experiences that I live each day. We all come from different countries, have different cultures, ways of doing and dialect. Each place has something to say, a part of history to tell.

With my left shoulder chronically un-happy, I am aware that my time here will soon come to an end. I do not know what life as planned for me in the future but right now, my van is my home and it is a great place to be. I cherish every moment whether it is spent with friends laughing, playing giant chess game in the park, bouldering in the Woods or reading inscriptions on status and monuments.

Till next week.

Chapter 43: Un peu de tout...

Ca fait maintenant 4 semaines que je suis en Europe et je ne me suis pas ennuye une seconde. C'est tout comme si je venais tout juste de debarque de l'avion a Amsterdam. Le temps passe tres vite. Au rythme ou les choses vont, j'irai tres bientot chercher mon frere a l'aeroport Charle de Gaule a Paris.


Plus qu'un mois en Suisse. Ensuite, destination la France. J'y aie beaucoup d'amis - que j'ai rencontre on the road - qui m'y attendent deja. Encore une fois, on ne devrait pas trop s'ennuier.

Je suis encore a Magic Woods et je n'ai aucune intension d'aller voir ailleur. Les lignes sont toutes exceptionelles. J'en decouvre de nouvelles a chaque jour. Tellement que j'ai opter de diminuer le niveau de difficulte pour pouvoir en faire plus. J'avoue que la fatigue commence serieusement a prendre son compte. Avec le temps qui s'evapore, je suis loin de prendre le temps de repos necessaire. Aujourd'hui, j'ai bien tente d'alle faire quelque blocs mais il n'y avait rien a faire. J'ai due m'avoue vaincue et rebrousse chemin jusqu'au terrain de camping.



Je reviens tout juste du feu de camp ou des Autrichiens jouent de la guitare et chantent a s'en arracher les poumons. Les heures passent comme des secondes sont le charme des notes et du feu qui danse. Meme si le spectacle est quotidien, on ne s'en lasse jamais.

Il semble que le ciel n'aie plus d'eau a nous envoyer. Ca fait cinq jours que le soleil brille et on en profite tous. Les journees sont chaude mais les nuits tres froides, autour de 5 degres. Demain, je m'en vais m'acheter une couverture supplementaire, peu importe le prix.

Chapter 42:We have power!

We have power! We were finally able to trouble shoot the problem with the car lighter. The solution involved dismantling an entire dash board with an Swiss Army knife, getting a stronger ground, welding a new fuse and burning a few others in the process. The welding part was my favorite: Red heating a flat head screwdriver till it was hot enough to provide a second or two of melting capabilities. Three hours and a thank of propane later, we were ready to put everything back together.

This place is getting busier and busier with each passing week. It seems like the entire Europe is on vacation. Climbers come from everywhere. The Woods can easily accommodate all but I can't say the same about the campground. People have to pitch tents in the parking lot. With so many around, here are a few observations.

About Mullets:
They are back, in Europe anyway. It is the new fashion, specially in Spain and Poland. Cool! It is kind of a renaissance of the 80's and Wayne's World. One Polish guy - witch sadly left this morning before I could take a picture - pushed the envelope by combining a mullet with dreads. Yes, I know, it is hard to imagine but you can do it. Short on top with the long stick in the back...

About dreads:
Have you ever seen a dog with dreads?



About recycling:
I would expect Switzerland to be more incline to it then any other nations. After all, they monitor everything from consumption of clean water to waste water, gaz, electricity and garbage production. But we don't recycle. Nop, all goes to land fill, shame.

I owed you a few videos so no more of me and more bouldering.



Here is another. Nop, this is not Squamish.

Chapter 41: Power issues...

I have no power left.

Not in the finger but in the car. The cigarette lighter just gave up so I can't recharge the laptop. Doing my best to solve the problem.

Stay tune for more post.

Chapter 40: 38 hours and counting...

That is for how long it's been raining for. I was reading my log book this morning to find out that since I've been here - 13 days -, we've got more rainy days then anything else. Here, when it rains, it poors. Looks like the situation is the same everywhere. The campground is filled with licence plates from all over Europe. People are trying to escape the rain. As one of the viking would say: "when you chase the sun, the rain follows". The poor lad and his friends drove all the way from Sweden to Switzerland, 24 hours overall, desperatly trying to climb something along the way.

So far, the "E. van of love" is working just fine and keeping me dry. These lines are written from inside of it at candle light with a pot of tea on the stove.

Here are a few videos shot in between thunder showers. Kudo to the climbers who still manage to send despite wet holds.

Some friends from Belgium. She'd been working the line for a while.

Chapter 39: Wow la Suisse!

Meme si il pleut depuis que j'y aie mie les pieds, le peut de paysage visibles a travers les eclaircies de nuages sont absolument superbes. Partout, on peut appercevoir de petits villages rustique a flanc de montagnes. Les routes de campagnes sont tout aussi spectaculaires. Carrement suspendue dans le vide, faut surtout pas chercher le bouton du volume du radio. Non monsieur, on laisse le tout tranquille et on regarde en avant.

Magic Wood, nom donner a l'endroit ou on grimpe, ressemble a s'y tromper avec Squamish. Andeer est le village le plus pres. Les rues y sont encore en pierre et les maisons paintes a la main. Je vous mets quelque photos bientot. L'approvisionnement en eau du village et du camping se fait a meme les ruisseaux qui coulent des montagnes environnantes.

Les villageois sont des gens tres fiers qui attachent un soins particuliers a conserver leurs coutumes et l'aspect rustique de l'endroit ou ils habitent. Je ne me surprend plus a voir un troupeaux de vaches - et elles ont tous une cloche au cou - se promener en avant de l'epicerie ou a etablir residence sur la seule route qui permet de traverser le village. Faut donc alle chercher le fermier proprietaire parce qui est le seule qui peu les faires bouger. Assez special comme experience.

Chapter 38: The woods are magic!

I am in Switzerland. Magic Woods!

It is fantastic. The forest is, well magic. If you've been to Squamish, you don't need to come here. No wait, you really need to come here. Although the forest looks exactly the same, the problems are so much better. The lines magnificent, everywhere. You just want to climb everything.

The landings you ask? This place makes Squamish landing look like a flat beach. You definitely need a lot of pads and spotter here. Wondering on your own is almost impossible.

Ok, a bit about the logistic now. Magic Woods is in the complete nowhere. They dont even sale ice at the grocery store. Finding an Internet connection is even more of a mission impossible. What I was able to get cost 1$ a minute. Better not make any typing mistake. Since it is very expensive, I will try to keep up with the weekly video and to answer you all, even with very short words so keep on writing.

The next post will be in french so no bitching Dom. It will give you an opportunity to learn the language of love.

I should stay here for a month or two, if it does not rain too much. Since I got here, all I can say is that I wish I brought my rubber boots. Kind of hard to go cranking in the rain. But we manage. It makes for great stories I tell you.

Chapter 37: Le E van!

Bonjour a tous!

A tout mon public francophone, ca faisait longtemps qu'on ne s'etait pas jase.
Je suis presentement a Amsterdam. Je dors et me repose dans un auberge de jeunesse a l'exterieur du centre ville. La ville est a 20 minutes de metro/bus.

C'est tout simplement magnifique. L'architecture est exceptionel. Les building font 4 etages maximum. Les style se suivent, s'amalgament, forment un tout, un agencement de couleurs, de lignes continues, un spectacle visuel fascinant.

La ville est aussi tres propre. Pas d'ordures, de dechets, de papier sur le trottoir, rien. Pas de smog non plus. Les gens vont travailler en metro et a velo. Assez impressionant, il y a des velos partout et en plus, ils ont la priorite.

Autre fait etonnant, il y a de l'eau partout. Amsterdam se trouve a un altitude qui est situe sous le niveau de la mer. Ils ont batit des digues sur tout le long de la cote. Lorsque la maree monte, les canaux interieurs sont noye, creant des vois de transport tres utilise. Des gens vont meme jusqu'a vivre en permanence sur des bateaux.

Hier, je suis alle chercher mon Westfalia. Un Volkwagen 1985.


Ca se conduit comme un autobus. Un peu bizarre au debut mais on s'y fait. Tellement qu'on aime. Je peux comprendre le culte. Parce que le Westfalia compte des adeptes a travers le monde. Au moins, la transmission comporte 5 vitesses et le radio a ete chage. Je peux donc syntoniser les postes de radio et faire jouer mon Ipod. Il y a aussi le grand luxe: Table et cuisine interieur avec deux bruleurs et lavabo.


Je partirai probablement demain matin en direction la Suisse. Le tout devrait prendre 8 heures en passant par l'Allemagne. Je me rend dans une petite ville de montagne appele Ausserferrera. Serieux, pas de farces. Voici un lien, vous pouvez voir l'itineraire et ou ca se trouve.

Chapter 36: AmsterDam!

Wow, this place is cool! I've been walking around for the last 3 days. Today is rest, weird to say that you need a rest from walking.















I've seen some great things so far: De Nieuwe Kerk ( the new chuch- www.nieuwekerk.nl ), the Van Gogh Museum ( www.vangoghmuseum.nl ), the Red Light district with it's windows, the parks and squares and much more. The Rijksmuseum is definitely on top of the list with the famous story high 'Night Watch' piece by Rembrandt.

The city is amazingly clean. Streets are free of garbage. People here go about their daily businesses on bikes. Put the kids in the front basket, the groceries in the back and there they go. No smog.

The architecture live up to the expectations. Beautiful in every way: The lines, styles, colors and carvings. Most buildings don't exceed 4 stories high. Water canals spread across the city like a giant web.

Boats are a way of transportation and housing for some. Mature trees provide shadings throughout the city. Stone paved little alleys filled with artisans, pubs, coffee shops and street entertainers make up most of the old down town. Wondering around markets and squares, sitting on benches, sipping on a Lattes, I could do just that for a while.





I have to admit, I always thought of myself as being into 'brunette' but since I am here, I'm developing a strong interest in 'blond with blue eyes'. They are everywhere!

Today, I am picking up the 'E van of love'. Tomorrow is shopping for pots, pans, plates and all one's need on the road. I should be getting on the road to Switzerland Sunday or Monday morning.

Chapter 35: Farewell!

This is the last post before heading to Europe. I am well but tired, really tired. I need to rest. Amsterdam will be perfect for doing just that. I apologize for those who are writing to me and don't get replies. I write back but messages usualy don't make it across the pond.

Till the next post, here is one of the Frenchies, Raphael, linking the 'Arch babysitter' with a price tag of V8.

Enjoy!

chapter 34: Magical 'cedar spine' arrete.

It is raining again today. Yesterday, I was able to capture this video of are Spanish friend Tonyo sending 'Cedar Spine arrete'. One of the most beautiful line of the place.

Sadly, the Frenchies from Font. are leaving tomorrow. We all agreed to open another bottle of whine once reunited in France.

I also open an email account with Yahoo since hotmail had become completely un-reliable. Some of you wrote me, I replied but most of you did not get it. Hopefully, we will be more lucky in the future. Here is the address: etienne_hubert_poirier@yahoo.com.

Finally, if you had enough of those annoying 'brand-power' advertisement on tv, well, we have it too in South Africa. Can't watch the news without being told that 'Coco-Puff' cereals are part of a complete breakfast. It is a world wide take over.

chapter 33: Breaking it again.

Today, I did my first V12.

Hopefully, it wont be the last. Nothing else to say, nothing else to show.

More to come soon.

Chapter 32: The end is the beginning, part II.

This part of the road trip is close to an end. I will be leaving South Africa on the 22th of June heading to the Netherlands. Why the Netherlands you ask? To pick-up a campervan in Amsterdam. "The E van of love" as Luke put it. I should be spending about a week in the city of the Red Light District and the ever green grass.

After the smoke lift up, I'll be heading to Switzerland for about a month to explore the Magic Woods. The plan was to stay longer in the Woods but two Austriens convinced me that I had to come and visit their bouldering meccas. Sure, why not? Hope Austriens in general speaks more english then my new friends otherwhise I'm in for lot's of fun.

What about Font? Don't worry, France is in the plan for September/October. Fontainbleau is mandatory but Tony is currently twisting my arm to get on the road with him for a tour of it's favorite areas of the hexagone. O Lord, not enough time, not enough energy.

11 days, that's all that remains to send my project. Progress is made each time I walk to it but it will be tight. Ask Josh about 'the f**ck**g sharp crimps' line on the 'tea pot boulder', he gave a few burns leaving skin behind.

Again, all apologies for not providing the weekly movie and pictures. With all the power outage, it is just impossible to make the up load.

Chapter 31: Amazing...

Today, I witness an amazing send. So much I would give to be able to capture the event it but all went so fast. I turned the corner to spot my friend. When I came back he had already started. Making is way flawlessly to the crux move, all was going well. He set the foot and launched. A scream, right elbow up, feet cutting loose but this time, he held.

Tony Lamiche was on top of Fred Nicole 8C (V15) line in only two days of work.

As for me, I am taking it easy for the next few days. My body hurts and I climb like crap. I need to rest a bit before the last leg of the trip. When all is confirmed, I will let you all in on my travelling itinerary. Meanwhile, this is a movie of Theo, one of the Frenchies, sending Ulum Batar -V8. Harder than it looks.

I apologize for the quality of the video. The internet link is so bad that I have to considerably reduce the quality of the images if I want it to go through.

Chapter 30: For your entertainment.

Finally, I am able to provide foottage. For once, it is not raining and we could work on the tan. The following line is a V9. A really stiff one. If you are wondering why my spotter is in his undies, well, don't go having twisted thoughts. Jon has been working the line for a long time. Walking up to the line he said that if he'd send, he would jump in the drink. Can you guess what happened?

Have a good one.

Chapter 29: Friends and laugh.

The sun is back for a while now so we take advantage of it as much as possible. My body hurts lot's. More climbers from all around the world are getting here every day. Now a day, I climb my three Frenchies from Fontainbleau. At time, we do more laughing then climbing.

I would love to bring you the video of the week but the link prevent me from doing so. Sorry all, it is out of my hands. I will make it up to you.

Last night, Josh and Julien stopped at my place. They are back earlier then expexted from Namibia. They should be spending the remaining of their trip chilling in Cape town.

For those watching the news, yes, things are getting a bit shaky in Johannesbourg and Cape town. So far, Clanwilliam is violence free. I am all right and monitoring the situation closely.

Chapter 28: Half way through.

I’ve been down here a month already, wow, time flies by. It is raining again, just like yesterday. So far, I had as many days of sunshine as I had of rain. Despite the weather, I remain positive and make the best of it. Yesterday, I walked up to the boulders, crawled in a cave and waited for windows. Becoming very efficient in the art of drying holds, I was able to work magic, send my project and start working another line. I would love to provide footage but nobody was crazy enough to go up with me. Instead, this is what I have for you:



This video was shot a few days ago in Arch Valley with the mercury hoovering around the 30 mark with rainforest like humidity.

I spend rest days preparing for Europe. The original plan was to do a Buy-sell deal on a small family wagon but the option prove to be more expensive then expected. The new plan is to lease a used VW campervan. I will provide numbers when all is settled. The hard part now is to get the lady in charge of the business to answer her emails. It can be so hard to give away money. I don’t understand the concept, really.


The soldier's head. A cool rock formation.

Chapter 27: Rain, proposal, send and friends.

Ok, it’s been a while since I made a post. Sorry but not much was happening except for rain. But as the sun returned, life became much more interesting. What should I start with? Climbing in the rain, the wedding proposal, the sending or friends from home dropping in town.

Well, I assume all want me to clear the proposal business. All started as a normal grocery shopping day at the Super Spar (the grocery store). Since I am not much of a cook, I truly appreciate the hot meal buffet where you pick what you want and pay according to the weight of your appetite. So I show up to the ordering counter where the same attendant great me with her usual smile. As she finish rapping up my dinner, she turned around and asked:

Girl: Where are you from?
Pepe: From Canada.
Girl: Do you have a girl friend?
Pepe: Aaaaa no...
Girl: Do you have a wife?
Pepe: Aaaaa NO...
Girl: Well, I can be your wife if you want to.
Pepe: (With eyes wide open in complete shock) aaaaaaaaaaa....
What do you answer to that? All I was able to blab out was "sorry, all I want to do is climb". What I got back from her was ‘the look’. Of course, she did not understand.


Bushman's painting

In South Africa, the winter months of June to August brings rain. Many days in a row at time. We did not see the sun for 6 days. I rested for the first 4 but on the morning of the fifth, I just could not take it anymore. A quick stop a the local campground to round up the only climber present and on are way we were. It was just like climbing in England where you still go out despite the mist, fog and blowing wind. I tried to take pictures but not much was good. What do you expect when you can’t see 5 feet in front of you.

Anyway, the sun is back and I climbed the last three days. Two of the projects on the list got crossed. Rest is required today but tomorrow, I am heading to Arch Valley.

Finally, Josh and Julien, two friends from Calgary and Quebec city, dropped in today. It was good to see friends from home. They are on their way to Namibia where they will spend 2 and a half weeks. Have a good one guys.

Making the best of climbing in the rain: Waiting for your chance and taking it.

Chapter 26: Nerver thought that I would say...

It is getting cold. Never thought that I would say such thing in South Africa. After the 35 degrees that we had, 15 degrees feels like the North Pole.
Around here, winter brings rain. It’s been raining for the last two days and it should be the same tomorrow.

Not much to say. Been working projects. Some are falling, others resist. It can be a frustrating I tell you. Being so close and still failing. They will all submit under strength.

Anyway, this is a view of the landscape. Beautiful.


Here, every house are guarded by territorial animal. I’ve seen dogs, goose, cats, duck and pigs. Some old guy thought that his house would be safe with this one.

Chapter 25: Driving South African Style

I will admit, I was not expecting it to be that bad. After all, I've been faced with many extreme forms of driving in my life. At an early aged, I learned to anticipate and react to Montreal driver's way of merging into adjacent lanes. Then, while driving through Toronto a few times, it became clear that these guys developed amazing skills for rubber necking which can only be countered by driving faster. Recently, I've been perfecting my driving skills in Calgary. Somehow, Calgarians love car pile-ups, specially on beautiful sunny days.

Clanwilliam's main street.

Explaining why South African drivers are so dangerous is very complex. Some has to do with their erratic, unpredictable, imaginative, compulsive, unforgiving and impatient driving behavior. It is also about what they drive. Some cars have seen more abuse then old Russian farming equipment. It certainly has to do with what they transport inside, in the back or top of the car/truck: Dunkies, cows, pigs, ducks all together with as much people as possible. Seat belts? What are you talking about...

Here, passing lanes don't exist. Really, why would one need some when you can use the shoulder or force incoming traffic on there’s. As you probably guessed, speed limits are only suggestions, so are lines on the roads - when they bother putting some.
Walking down Clanwilliam's main street, I realized really fast that cars have the way ahead on pedestrians, not the other way around. I am also not certain if the population of the town completely understands the meaning of a stop sign.

Finally, if you end up having to drive on South African dirt roads, be aware that they are commonly used by locals as training grounds for the Paris-Dakar rally race. But it could be worse, really. Like in New Zealand where they have herds of sheep taking over high ways. Here, we only have baboons. They are mean but mobile, at least.

Chapter 24: Settling in.

I still haven’t resolved the fast internet connection issue. You are reading those lines cause I write it on my laptop, save it to memory stick and spend an arm and a leg publishing the post at the local internet café. Since they only run on 56K modems, you can forget any pictures or videos for a while. I would have to sell a kidney to afford it.

For those who don’t know, Rockland is located 15-30 minutes drive from Clanwilliam, approximately 2 hours north of Cape Town. The town is very small, 5000 peoples at best. With a main street spanning 200 meters, one can only hope to find the bare minimum. At least, they have a small coffee shop. I reside very comfortably in a guest house a few block from the ‘strip’.

The climbing here is amazing. It resemble Joe’s valley: Short steep bouldering. This is the land of the one move wonder. Very finger intensive, kind of like bouldering at the Vsion in Canmore. Boulders are everywhere you look. 99.9% of it is crap except for a few isolated areas. If you can find those, you get amazed by the colors, shapes, textures, angles and caves.

75% of the lines are not registered in any guidebooks or topos. If they are, lines usually have no name and are rated all over the map. But they are so good. The beauty of it all will bring the obsessive compulsive personality out of any boulderer. Your desire to climb it is so strong that you go out there almost every day. Not even the 30 degree temperature can tame the need. So far, I’ve been here for 9 days and I only took 3 days off. Everything hurt, especially my core. All I can say is if you are planning a road trip around here, make sure you pack extra abs muscles and a second set of crimp strength.

Yap, it’s been hot, very hot. 30 to 35 degrees every day since I got here. Go figure, according to various weather website, we should be bouldering at a very condition perfect 10 to 15 degrees. It is suppose to rain tonight. Time for another cup of tea before heading out. We’ll try to squeeze one last session before the storm.

Chapter 23: Just when I was ready to pack it all up.

I found climbers! One guy, Tom, from New York and two locals, John and Amy. The second day of climbing was phenomenal, soo good. I was shown the great stuff. I have to say, if you don't know where it is, you don't stand a chance. The guide book is bad, very bad. No wonder I was ready to throw the towel. According to John, many comes and just leave cause they can't find anybody to climb with nor the good lines. They are soo hard to find. Really, you have to be right beside the line to see it.

Chapter 22: Jet lag and such...

Every morning at 1:30am, my body is ready to go. I stay eyes wide open, staring at the ceiling till 5am where I finally get some light sleep till usually 9am. My care taker can help but to laugh loudly at my look as I walk out of the house. Cause I scored big time. Luck of the draw, I found a guest house - not a hostel, that is completely different here -, with my private room, kitchen, bathroom and tv for 100 Rand a night. That turns out to about 10$ Canadian. On top of that, she cooks for me! Sweet.

Back to the climbing now. There is nobody. Not a single climbing soul. I went to every guest house, camping, hotels and motels. Nop, nobody. My first day of climbing sucked. Most of the problem require many pads. While managing a few ground falls, I grew tired of 35 degree temperature, talking to my chalk bag and crappy lines. Really, how can they call this a world class area? I certainly did not traveled two continents to climb a pile of shit comparable to Big Choss.

But it got better, much better.

Chapter 21: I made it.

Wow, 28 hours of traveling. 9 hours to make it to London, 7 hours of waiting in Heathrow and 12 to Cape town. Was I happy to set foot on the ground. So much to tell but where to start. I would like to do it from the beginning but I was in such sleep deprived mode that lot's is still a blur. First of all, all the bags and luggage made it and without any visible damage. Quite surprised I have to say.

As for wheels, I got myself an upgrade from the little Volkswagen Chico - known as the Rabbit in Canada, yes, you can still get that thing brand new here - to a Polo. Not much bigger but more comfortable, well, that is what I am still trying to convince myself off anyway. First mistake, trying to get in the left side of the car. Where is the steering wheel? True true, they drive - if you can call it driving - on the left side of the road. To sit on the right side of the car gives you a weird feeling. Driving on the left side of the road is even more weird. To make it even more challenging, I got on the road in the middle of rush hour, road sides are second to non existing and the airplane breakfast is not setting in very well. I got lost a few times, ending in some ghetto neighborhood. Managing my way to the Interstate N7 - the one I was looking for -, I learned the South African way of driving really fast. To this subject I will dedicate an entire post.

3 hours of driving brought me to Clanwilliam. A little town of less then 5000 in the middle of the no where.

South Africa, N7 Clanwilliam: Internet connection issues.

Hi all.

I am alive and kicking.

Sorry, I haven't made any post yet. Please stay tune. I am experiencing severe difficulties trying to buy an access to broadband. All I can say is don't take the internet for granted.

Have fun and keep pulling.

chapter 20: The end is the beginning.

For any road trip to begin, another one must end.

After two months of pulling hard, my body is used and abused. As much as I want to keep squeezing, my muscles are disagreeing.

This is the last post before I head up North somewhere along the end of the coming weekend. Looking forward to enjoy shushi and BEvERageS with all of you.

Chapter 19: Super hot Tony!

Tony, you rock!


This is Tony sending High Brow(V8) on the very last try of the very last day of the 'Bishop 2008 take over' tour. By the way, there is no hands spotting not because we are too lazy or don't like Tony, nop, it's because he is way above all of them. Ya, it's that high! This line gets two flying hearts in the guidebook.

What can't be seen on the video is Eric, Seonaid, Jeff and myself all sweating bullets with every attempts and failures. Tony, I have to brake it to you: You were soo happy to send but we were more happy then you.

It was good to have you around guys. I really hope that you are already planning the 'Bishop 2009 take over' tour.

Chapter 18: fire bombs and poi poi.

Finaly, ladies and gentlemens, I was able to do some uploading.

Presenting to you the lovely kerie - see chapter 14 - spinning Poi Poi for you.




This is one video to look at. I told you about fire bombs, well, here it is.

Very simple to do: You need cooking oil, a burning fire, water and someone crazy. With Dom around - see chapter 14 -, the list was complete.

As soon as little Louis-Felix went to bed, J.T. couldn’t helped it and triggered the process with the now famous through town: "Let's blow some shit up". With Jessie as are resident expert in the field, the plan got executed to perfection. The result was quite entertaining.

Stay tuned, Tony sending High Brow is scheduled for the next post.

Chapter 17: Burning...

This is a view from the Pit of the Table Lands with the pasture in front of it burning.

During the weekend, it was the Bishop trout fishing derbie. Some wise fisherman, lover of nature and the great outdoors decided to 'dispose' of his nicotine distributing device. It all burned, all of it: 150 acres.




Despite laws, signs, warnings and fires, millions are still throwing the cigarette but. Next time you see a smoker being stupid at you crag, say something. Remember, it could be your climbing/hunting/biking/running spot that gets closed down or burned out as a result of irresponsible behaviors.

Chapter 16: Once again...it will snow.

Due to very cold temperatures, we’ve been forced to the Table lands for the last few days. Yesterday, some dude got blown off Evilution while his spotters were running after the pads. Not good. Walking around in the Buttermilks was kind of fun: For a starter, going against the wind was a great workout. Second, you could see pads flying like kites in the sky - literally - on a regular basis. The chase that follows is also entertaining.

Been working hard lately, just no send. In the Buttermilks, I am slowly making my way up Mistery(12) and really want to get on Micheal Cain(12) - Get Carter boulder - as soon as the weather allows.

Today, we had a stellar but cold day in the Happies. I fell off the last move of Dirty boulevard(11) and still making progress on Mandance(11). I also had a walk to Bubba but buster(11). Very nice line starting on Toxic avenger. It should go down soon.

Hey Simon, I went back to Swordfish T. With some locals. The hold of the opening move has broken off making the thing much harder. You should get down here to help me figure it out.
I have tons of good video to show you guys, specially the one of Tony B. sending High Brow on the last try of the trip. Nice work Tony! I just can’t make the upload to Blogger. Something is wrong with the upload mechanism. Just stick around, the situation will hopefully be resolved soon.

I receive lot’s of emails about my traveling plans. Indeed, they changed a bit. Instead of heading to Europe right after leaving Bishop, I want to hit Rockland for the May-July time frame, then, Europe. Anybody interested?

Time to go find fire wood for tonight. It will be cold, water will freeze.

P.s. Queen of the highballs, good send on The Pursuit of Wow. I was on the line again today. You end up really high up. Kudos for you, Wow!

Chapter 15: Evilution, the send.

Hi all.

I sent Evilution to the lip two days ago. Sorry for the late post and the very bad image quality. The internet link is just not cutting it around here.

I sent on a very hot and humid day. On this, I grabbed the first hold of three on the jug rail. That was high enough for me as my hands started to slip. You can call me sissy, I wont mind.

Have lot's of other videos to show but it will have to wait. I will try to post more tomorrow. No guaranties there.

I am now resting for 4-5 days.

Enjoy.

Chapter 14: Life at the Pleasant valley Pit campground

Rest days are soo hard to take when you are on the road mainly because there is nothing to do. When you finally give in to your body's screaming complaints and decide to rest, the day usualy starts with sleeping in and a slow breakfast. From the camp site, you watch the cars as they leave one by one. The show is not too bad till they are all gone. Then, boredom sets in really fast.

Well that can't be said for this year in Bishop. The life in the Pit is like when you go see a play: Actors are telling you a story where something cool and unusual will happen. The various actors living in the Pit are so funny, colorful, filled with ideas - not always good - and energetic that you actually look forward to rest days. Read on to find out who makes my life soo interesting and why:

Riko and April:
Riko is our very eccentric camp host. Host of the Riko show - featuring himself -, this guy will make you gasp for air from laughing too much. Tuning in is simple, speak the magic words: " Hey Riko, how you'd doin ". Then, hang on. He jumps from one subject to another without really connecting the dots. All that can stop him is April bringing back the ball for another throw. By the way, don't ever start the fetch game with her. She'll give you tendanitist in elbows and shoulders.

J.T. and Bobo:

Two kids from Wisconsin and Kentucky with a raging desire to....read. Go figure. Their 10 person tent is half filled with bins of books. In itself, it is worth mentioning but one epic Saturday night is the reason they made it to this blog. To celebrate J.T's admission to grad school, they went on a drinking spree that ended up with J.T. face planting and passing out in the desert. Words are just not enough to describe the morning vision of a guy walking around with half the face covered with dirt.

ps: We call him Bobo cause he hates it.

Skip:
Are very own police officer - ex-security guard -. Skip's is perfect for practicing straight face as one just can't burst up in tears and spoil the seriousness of the moment when he talks about is ''meeting'' with the Bishop mafia and the ''drink and think day''. He is also known to provide wake-up calls in the early morning by shaking tents: "Good morning gentlemen". And if you happen to go to town, don't forget to bring his favorite King Cobra -1L bottle of beer, 2$.

Jessie:
Very quiet and always gone. Well, She goes to bed with sunset and gets up at 4am. She works at the local bakery and brings us day olds.

Clay and Greg:
Two ultra motivated 19 year old punks from Wisconsin. After watching all the good videos about Bishop bouldering on YouTube, they could'nt help it but to pack their bags, buy Greyhound tickets and get down here for as long as a few hundred dollars will last. On rest days, they both study the ancient art of mohawk - see pictures - and experiment with the various levels of hypothermia. The word in the Pit is that they tried to find wild hot springs in Mammoth for 3 hours in up to the waist fresh snow.

John and Keri:
From Washington, they will sadly be leaving soon. Carry is are poie poie specialist and yoga master. John is a bystander, just like me. Smart enough not to go along with Dom's epic ideas - see next comedian - but always ready to watch the show.

Dominic:
20 year old kid from Redland, California. He is know as the 'Man' of the Pit. For some odd reasons, every one new to the campground will end up crashing on his campsite. Dom is the master of epic ideas - read completely absurd - that reeks trouble right from the get go. We named him the nuclear detonator. On his own, all is perfectly safe but when Nick is around...

Nick and Static:
Nick and his dog, Static, are from Moab. The dog and the owner are alike: Time bombs waiting for a tick. Dom's has the ideas, Nick execute. Be on the look out for fire bombs, epic bouldering days and rally racing in a pickup truck with a camper on the top. One last details: Nick believes is 'liquid meals' and never miss the opportunity to quote Skip on the subject: "Beer contains all the proteins and nutrients that you need. 'It has hops and barley, and wheat, and oats... there's a porkchop in every can"

Ben, Claudia and Buddha:
My new found friends from Quebec. Claudia is the Queen of French toasts and Ben B.B.Q.'s like no one else. Let's not forget about Buddha the dog and his obsession with his ball.

With all those different personalities and the dynamic that they create, there is never a doll moment in the Pit. Wether you want to kill the day or looking for entertainment before going climbing, you wont have to look too far. Someone is always pulling a goofye trick, playing riddles, planning the next prank or simply broadcasting Dom's latest epic.

Got to go, Keri is spinning fire.

Chapter 13: Braking the grade.

Hi all!

Not much to say. I rested for the last few days. Kind of afflicted with a cold. Hard to find the motivation to crank it when you are coughing and have a head ache.

Weather is nice and the Buttermilks are finally drying. Folks been going up there but you kind of needed the ‘kit’. The kit is a tarp for the mud puddles, a shovel for clearing the path from the descent back to the shoes and extra towels cause you will inevitably step in snow. Not for me thank you. Soo much nice stuff to do in the Table lands.

Yesterday, I did my first V11. It was the natural progression. I was working the grade for a while but somehow problems that I’ve chosen either screwed up my fingers (mandance) or had broken holds (exit the dragon). A bit soar today.

Stay tune for highlights of the life at the Pit. Rest days are soo easy to take this year....

Chapter 12: Strength and the irrelevance of it...

Life seems to have this way of always keeping me centered with both feet on the ground although projects are falling one after the others. Yesterday, I found myself on top of Low Rider on the first go. Of course, I had worked the moves before. The link was smooth and fast. I was fulfill with the sense of empowerment and accomplishment. But one just can’t take himself seriously when next on the sending train is Gabriello Moroni linking the Sharma’s Traverse. Quite humbling I have to say.

So how those one climbing V12 makes strength irrelevant you ask? Gabriel's send just proves that strength and numbers are in direct relation? Sure they are. But what is also directly proportional and completely unjustified is the ego that some develop as they climb up the number scale.

Before we go any further, I have to stress that the intent of this post is by no meen to point the finger at specific individuals - Moroni is a very very nice guy -. Nop, it is only the result of various ridiculous observations made during the last few months.

Let's start with a simple question: Why do you climb? Really, what drives you to keep squeezing? Don't answer right away so you can read on. Take your time, write it down.
To each is own reasons. No judging here. But I feel that a lot of us, climbers, lost track of the fundamental aspects of climbing that made us go back, time after time, to the gym and local crags.

Not too long ago, I was surfing the Gripped.com blog. Following a post, one was asking '...who are the 5 best climbers in Alberta'. Couldn’t help but to shake my head asking "who really cares?". A few nights ago, sitting at my camp site enjoying the fire, one guy showed up and introduced himself. I asked how is day went. What followed was a spew of the names and numbers of what he sent but more so, what he wanted to work on without missing any of the grading. He then proceed to ask me what level I was climbing at??!!??

Dude, what I really wanted to know is if you enjoyed the day. Second, who cares at what level I climb at. Does it really matter who is better, if I sent in four or ten tries? What are you trying to do, size me up, get in direct competition with me? Let me tell you, you did not set the bar too high for yourself.

I wonder what happened to breathing fresh air, cracking jokes and laughing with friends, supporting each others in accomplishments and failures. When did it shifted to finding out who is the best, who climbs the strongest. When did a grading system went from being the reference of a challenge to a way of definition and getting visibility for oneself. Why searching to live in the eyes of others, to have your name whispered?

So you want a few free pair of shoes and a t-shirt, to be seen on 8a.nu, to have groupies, to get your pictures in magazines. Ok, to each is own. All I can say is that you are playing a game to which you've already lost. You will always seek the pipedream. You can train all your life and still, some punk will wake up one morning, buy a pair of Bufo's and will make you look like you don't even know how to walk. Back to the starting line pal. How futile your quest is I hope realizing you are.

I can already foresee my inbox being fielled with reply's of the type: Well, better to chase the dream then nothing. If you can't find a better climbing goal then that, let me help you.
What about something that goes in the way of trying to squeeze every ounce of potential out of yourself. Already doing so, here's the kicker: Do it for yourself. Not for the shoes, the ranking, others, but for you. Next time you send, don't tell anybody, see how it feels.

Sorry for the ranting, I just had to say it, the game is stupid. If you made it that far, here's your reward. This is a video of me on Slow Dance. I sent two weeks ago. Also, don't forget the checkout the new pics.

Got to go now, have to return to my scorecard (8a), someone might have get ahead of me so I will have to do some updates (cheat and lie).

Pepe out.

p.s. Josh and Chris, I have a profound respect for you guys.

Chapter 11: Encore une fois...

Et moi qui pensait que c'etait termine...Ben non!

Hier soir, on a eue droit a la tombee d'un melange de neige et pluie. Le tout s'est continue pendant toute la nuit pour cesser ce matin. C'etait pas chaud au reveil.

Vue qu'il n'y aurait pas de grimpe au menu aujoud'hui, Claudia a eue la super idee de se faire un dejeune de roi. Ben oui, avec un mercure vacillant autour du 0 degree, on s'est fait du pain doree. Pas pire notre affaire.

Qui est Claudia? Elle et son copain Ben on debarque a Bishop il y a environ 4 jours en compagnie du chien, Buddha. Ils sont aussi en vacance pour quelque mois. Encore une fois, on ne s'ennuie pas.


Demain, avec le retour du beau temps, on recommence a grimper si et seulement si monsieur meteo ne s'est pas trompe.

Au prochain post, je vous met des photos et un video.

Chapter 10: What a Saturday in the Buttermilks!

You know you are in for some action when Mike Doyle and Math Birtch are in town. The first one has is eyes on the Mandala and the second one, well, the sit down start to the same problem. Before we go any further, for those who do not know, Math Birtch is one of the English power house. I had the chance to see him hike the Mandala like I climb V2.

We all had are day figured out. Me, I was on a mission to rage on the Evilution. Absolutely stunning line at V10. A series of 5 long hard moves to a few good decent pulls all the way to the lip. I got the kick I was looking for. So nice to climb. Already tired from the previous day, I could only link 3 of the 5 moves. I will be back with a full thank of gaz, let me tell you.

As if I was not tired enough, I decided to try my luck 'Central Direct', 'Plain Drifter High' and 'babagump'. Sent none but had so much fun. Fore sure, they remain on the list of things to do.

With the sun getting behind the mountains, all gathered as the real show was about to start. The pads were set, Mike was going at it with his warm-up dance underneath the Mandala. And he went for it: the opening moves, the foot up, the reset, feet cut loose, the hard moves are done, now it is about keeping it together all the way to the top. Less then a minutes later, the celebration. Nice Mike, nice.

Now, Math Birtch sets up. He is not too happy, his starting holds are wet. Clear signs of disappointment from him and the crowd, the V14 ascent will have to wait.

Check out the new pictures of Math and Mike shoveling the top of the problem.

Of course, all the good things have to come to an end. My friends Karine and Jean-Huge are leaving. Can't really blame them. They are heading to New Zealand. Mike and Audrey are leaving as well, back to work. That has to hurt. As for me, it's been a month that I have left Calgary. I climbed lot's and my body is clearly tired. I will be taking it easy for the next 6 days. Folks, don't expect any sends. All I will do is a bunch of V0-V3, stretching and lot's of opposite muscle workout.

The white Mountains viewed from the Buttermilks.

And don't forget to check out the previous post. I was finaly able to upload some footage. Enjoy!

Chapter 9: Some Friday in the Buttermilks, I tell ya...

High all! Wow! The last two days of climbing been a blast. First, the temperature is perfect in the buttermilk but too warm in the Table Land. A bit of off roading is required to get up there. Imagine doing so with the minivan. Interesting. Friday morning, the crew gathered and warmed up at the Birthday boulder. Still fun to get your ass kicked by a V1 slab. A few try later, I was out of breath on top of the thing. Umm, how to get down now. Should had looked that up first. You learn really fast not to make that mistake again.

The air was crisp, finger pads thick, this is going to be good. We headed to Fly Boy for a quick onsight of the sit down start.


After a few good fly from the top, some members of the crew had enough of flying lessons. Time for the Bowling pin boulder. I was not going to put my shoes but the line was stellar. Quick warm up of the hands, a few hard pulls - harder then expected - and 'The ten pin trial' was dispatched flashed style. No footage for that one, Karine did not had time to take out the camera. Good thing cause you would hear some 'crying like a little girl' for the top out of that one. How do we come down now? Damn, I did it again.

Next on the list, soul slingner. This line is impressive and very intimidating to me. Three try later with some heel trickery of mine, I was on top.



This already amazing day could not be complete without attempting the soo popular 'High plain drifter'. Actually, the coming down is harder then the going up. Wooo, bring some crack climbing skill and a good set of nerves. I used to have the crack skills, umm, only left with the nerves...Yap, complaining their was.

Chapter 8: Le temps qui file.

Je m'excuse sincerement aupres de mes lecteurs francophones. Les derniers posts se sont fait seulement en anglais parce que je n'avais pas beaucoup de temps et que la connection internet tres mauvaise.

Bon, ou en etais-je. J'ai quitte Vegas au courant de la semaine passee pour cause de mauvais temps. J'ai pris la direction du sud, vers Phoenix. Bien entendu, et vous vous en doutez surement, il a pleue tout le long de la ride de char. J'ai dormis un petit deux heures avant de reprendre la route vers le nord et vers le froid: destination Bishop.

La premiere nuit fut tres froide mais la temperature s'est rechauffe graduellement depuis. Actuellement, le camping est tres agreable et les conditions sont ideals pour la grimpe pendant que tout le monde travaille.

Comme de fait, je me suis fait des amis (et retrouve d'autre) tres facilement. Je partage actuellement mon espace de camping avec Alex, un Danois de 19 ans, rencontre a Vegas. Tout a cote, aussi de Vegas, Rana et Thomas (a droite). On a bien du plaisir.

J'ai aussi fait la connaissance de Karin et Jean-huge. Deux Quebecois tres comiques aussi en vacance continue d'un an. Ils sont interessant a lire. Regardez leur blog, j'ai mis un lien a droite

De la gauche: Cody, Karyn, Jean-Huge, Alex aka The Kid.

Regardez aussi les nouvelles photos.

Aujourd'hui et demain, c'est journee de conge. Hier, on a tous eue une journee de grimpe exceptionelle: Tous les projets ont tombes. Ca ca veut dire que l'on a reussit a grimper les lignes qui nous font rever la nuit. Bon, umm, c'est pas bien bien plus clair. Demandez a Mathieu, il va vous expliquer. Je tenterai aussi d'ecrire un autre post sur la nature de faire du 'boulder'.

p.s. Dad, j'ai ajouter des photos du campground.
p.s.s. Je sympathise avec tout ceux qui se gelent le cul a Calgary.

Chapter 7: Resting at last...

Today is a rest day. Hard to admit you need one but your tips remind you so as soon as you touch something.

I was able to find a reliable internet connection. Check out the new picture set.

I know it is not much but it is cold and my camera is shy in such conditions. More will follow.

Tonight, hot springs....Ya baby!

Chapter 6: Back in Bishop!

If you want good climbing weather, make sure you don't bring me on the road with you.
The wind and the rain joined me in the capital of the slot machines. I guess not everybody's a winner like they say here. What can I do? It is snowing in Bishop, raining hard in Vegas, Utah is too cold and everybody left for Hueco. What about Phoenix? Weather looks solid and it's the home of the PBC (Phoenix Bouldering Competition).

So I packed the van. 7 hours later, I pull into the Oak Flats camp ground. It is 0 degrees out side, it is snowing/rainning and the weather man tells me it is suppose to last for 3 days. Ooo no!

Pissed off, I turned the van around and drove to Bishop. Overall driving time? You do the math.

I've been in Bishop for the last two days. It is very cold at night but superb climbing weather during daytime provide a down jacket and a thermost of tea. Manageable.
The good weather is suppose to stick for a while. Good. Finally, my luck (or lack of it) is turning. The Buttermilks are still not accessible. 4x4 with serious clearance is required. Let's give it a week or so.

Meanwhile, I am reapeting lot's of classic lines. I would like to provide pictures but the connection at the Looney Been is terrible. My upload to Flickr is constantly failing. Same with my 8a profile. Will have to do it via memory stick from the library. Tomorrow is a rest day, I will get on that.

Chapter 5: Vegas baby Vegas.

Vegas has been my playground for the last few days. I have to admit, I am impressed with the quality of the bouldering. Red Rock always been a prime sport climbing destination. With so many cool walls and lines to do, one can easily overlook the boulders on their way to 'Sunny and Steep'.

If you take the time to stop and explore a bit, you can find stellar lines. Anyway, enough to keep me busy for a week, while I figure out where I will be heading next.

I am looking for information and topo's for Turasik and Moe's Valley. If you know anything about it, send me a line.

I am also receiving lot's of emails from all of you. Sorry for not getting back promptly. I am having internet issues. When you are not paying for it, you can't complain too much. Keep writing, I will try my best to drop you a line or two.

E.

Chapter 4: Chasing or being chased...

We are running for the sun but the rain is always catching up.

Well, it seems that way. So much happened since the last post. It all started in Bishop on Thursday the 24th when I woke up with 5 cm of snow on the ground. Not good. The Calgary crew (Simon, Luke, Josh) flew in on the 23th and landed in Vegas. The tried to reach Bishop but were force to take a motel on the way due to a complete white out.

We finally met in the Happy’s with a chilling 0 degrees and blowing wind. You know it is cold when the sun in shining and nothing is melting. We still climbed (flailed) for a few hours before calling it quit.

In front of a warm cup of coffee, the decision was unanimous: We pack it all and head to Joshua Tree.

Joshua Tree National park…Mystical and magical place. Impossible to describe. I don’t have the words. The U2 album of the same name inspired from in? Maybe. From the minute you get in the park, you are amazed by the beauty of the land. The shapes, forms, trees (cactus?!). Like walking on a different planet.

And so was the climbing. I heard many time about the ‘style’ of climbing of J.T. The definition of a ‘boulder problem’ takes a hole new meaning. Used to crank V8-9 in a few tries, you end up racking you brain on finding out how to get on top of this ridiculous piece of rock.

We tried most of the classics: Smoking traverse, Street car name desire, stem gem, planet X, chilli sauce and sooooo many others. Are bodies are used and abused. Not complaining but are shoes are. The rock is so abrasive that you can go through a pair in few days. Josh and I have huge puncture holes on are right shoes from trying Street car.

The beating is well worth. When success comes, you get the feeling of achievement that is the same of toping out a project you’ve been working for weeks. Tips are soar but not so much compare to the palms, shoulders, backs, abs, legs, well, everything. Just like kids in a play ground, we also found many other ways to hurt are self: Climbing the J.T. trees, running straight in cactuses (don’t ask), spilling coffees and so on.

But again, the rain and the bad weather caught on to us. Last night, we packed it all and drove to Vegas (not again, sigh). We drove fast but not enough. This morning, it is raining. WhatYaGonnaDo? Take a rest day! Sweet. We’ve been climbing for the last four days.

I am doing this post from the Laundromat. After, it will be Starbuck and walking the strip. Hopefully, we will climb tomorrow. If it does not look better, we are heading back to Moe’s Valley in Utah.

Chapitre 3: Le county d'Inyo.

J’y suis arrive!

Il fait froid, tres froid. Difficile de se rechauffer et surtout, de faire des problemes difficiles. Je fais donc du millage.

Ce matin, on s’est reveille avec de la neige au sol. Plusieurs semble avoir eue tres peur puisque nous ne sommes maintenant plus que 5 au camping.

Le paysage qui nous entoure est encore plus magnifique que l’annee derniere. Les pics sont tous blancs. J’essaie de prendre des photos mais ma camera n’aime pas du tout le froid. Va falloir revoir.

Aujourd’hui est jour de conge. Principalement parce que la temperature oblige mais aussi parce que j’ai des amis de Calgary qui devrait se pointer ce soir et rester pour une semaine.

Je vous tiens au courant.

p.s. Ce matin, il faisait -7 degres dans la van...

Chapter 3: Inyo county.

I made it all right!

This is the second day climbing. It is very very cold down here. Hard to get anything going. No pictures yet cause my camera refuses to work with the temperature, even with bran new batteries. Speaking of pictures. Anybody know a good picture editing software that I could download for FREE? Send me an email or post it. That would be really nice.

Back to climbing now. Sending lot's of classic problems. Check out the 8a card for more details. Not too many people to play with. All have left for Hueco or J.T. This morning in the pit (campground), only 5 others soar climbers dare facing the storm that rolled in last night. Forgot to mention, we woke up with snow on the ground.

Tomorrow is a rest day. The tips need to get back to full capacities before the gang from Calgary gets here.

More posting to follow.

p.s. Last night, it was -7 in the van....

Chapitre 2: En route vers le paradis...

Bon, j’ai quitte Calgary autour de 9:40 ce matin. Il avait enfin cesse de neiger. Trop beau pour durer. Aux limites de la ville, je me suis fait attrapper par une belle grosse tempete. Tout etait blanc jusqu’a quelque pied en avant de la voiture.

L’avantage de voyager par mauvais temps est que la majorite de la population prefere rester a la maison plutot que d’aller depenser son argent aux States. En arrivant aux lignes, il n’y a que 9 voitures en avant de la mienne. Bon, ca devrait etre expedidif que je me dit. Une heure plus tard, c’etait a mon tour d’avoir un entrevue prive avec le bonhomme. 15 minutes plus tard, le gars se rend compte que mon histoire est legitime et me laisse continuer sans que j’ai a converser avec sa gang de chum a l’interieur. Sweet! Ca faisait longtemps que ce n’etait pas arrive ca.

Le Montana tout en blanc, c’est magnifique. Avant, j’y avait toujours conduit en automne. L’hivers offre un tout autre spectacle. C’est a voir pour ceux qui ont du temps.

J’ecris actuellement a partir de ma confortable chambre 5 etoiles du Dodge’Inn a Dillon. Vous devriez voir ca : Matela Suedois Therma-Rest, edredon synthetic/duvet MEC, eau en bouteille et vue imprenable sur le stationnement du Comfort Inn Motel. Pour le prix, difficile a battre.

Demain, un autre 10 heures de conduite m’attend. Je devrais me rendre jusqu’a Ely. Toute petite ville sur la frontiere entre le Nevada et la Californie. Il y a une grosse ligne blanche en plein milieux de la rue principale. D’un cote, la debauche avec les casinos, les bars et les danseuses. De l’autre, la religion ultra conservatrice avec ses nombreuses eglises et ‘minister’. Paradox ultra interessant.

Et surtout n’oubliez pas d’ecouter la radio local. ‘...Praise de Loooord....’

Chapter 2: On the way to heaven...

So I left Cow-Town at around 9:40am. Clouds were menacing but still holding. By the city limits, it was a full white out which would follow me all day.

The cool thing about bad road conditions is that people tend to stay home as opposed to go shopping across the border. There was nobody on the road. At the crossing: 9 cars in front of me. That should go fast that I tell myself. Ya right. An hour later, it is my turn to go for the full interrogation. After chatting with the guy for about 15 minutes, he figures that my story is legit, hand my paper and let me go. Sweet! This time, I did not have to go inside to explain myself.

Montana is beautiful when dressed in white. The snow kept falling till about an hour ago. I am writing these words straight from my private 5 star room at the Dodge’ Inn in Dillon. You guys should see the room. Ho! Exotic Swedish Therma-Rest mattress technology, bottle water, thick and comfy MEC synthetic/down quill. For the price, hard to come by.

Another 10 hours awaits me tomorrow. I should make it to Ely, right on the border of Nevada and California.