Tuesday, February 26, 2008

Chapter 12: Strength and the irrelevance of it...

Life seems to have this way of always keeping me centered with both feet on the ground although projects are falling one after the others. Yesterday, I found myself on top of Low Rider on the first go. Of course, I had worked the moves before. The link was smooth and fast. I was fulfill with the sense of empowerment and accomplishment. But one just can’t take himself seriously when next on the sending train is Gabriello Moroni linking the Sharma’s Traverse. Quite humbling I have to say.


So how those one climbing V12 makes strength irrelevant you ask? Gabriel's send just proves that strength and numbers are in direct relation? Sure they are. But what is also directly proportional and completely unjustified is the ego that some develop as they climb up the number scale.


Before we go any further, I have to stress that the intent of this post is by no meen to point the finger at specific individuals - Moroni is a very very nice guy -. Nop, it is only the result of various ridiculous observations made during the last few months.


Let's start with a simple question: Why do you climb? Really, what drives you to keep squeezing? Don't answer right away so you can read on. Take your time, write it down.
To each is own reasons. No judging here. But I feel that a lot of us, climbers, lost track of the fundamental aspects of climbing that made us go back, time after time, to the gym and local crags.


Not too long ago, I was surfing the Gripped.com blog. Following a post, one was asking '...who are the 5 best climbers in Alberta'. Couldn’t help but to shake my head asking "who really cares?". A few nights ago, sitting at my camp site enjoying the fire, one guy showed up and introduced himself. I asked how is day went. What followed was a spew of the names and numbers of what he sent but more so, what he wanted to work on without missing any of the grading. He then proceed to ask me what level I was climbing at??!!??


Dude, what I really wanted to know is if you enjoyed the day. Second, who cares at what level I climb at. Does it really matter who is better, if I sent in four or ten tries? What are you trying to do, size me up, get in direct competition with me? Let me tell you, you did not set the bar too high for yourself.


I wonder what happened to breathing fresh air, cracking jokes and laughing with friends, supporting each others in accomplishments and failures. When did it shifted to finding out who is the best, who climbs the strongest. When did a grading system went from being the reference of a challenge to a way of definition and getting visibility for oneself. Why searching to live in the eyes of others, to have your name whispered?


So you want a few free pair of shoes and a t-shirt, to be seen on 8a.nu, to have groupies, to get your pictures in magazines. Ok, to each is own. All I can say is that you are playing a game to which you've already lost. You will always seek the pipedream. You can train all your life and still, some punk will wake up one morning, buy a pair of Bufo's and will make you look like you don't even know how to walk. Back to the starting line pal. How futile your quest is I hope realizing you are.


I can already foresee my inbox being fielled with reply's of the type: Well, better to chase the dream then nothing. If you can't find a better climbing goal then that, let me help you.
What about something that goes in the way of trying to squeeze every ounce of potential out of yourself. Already doing so, here's the kicker: Do it for yourself. Not for the shoes, the ranking, others, but for you. Next time you send, don't tell anybody, see how it feels.


Sorry for the ranting, I just had to say it, the game is stupid. If you made it that far, here's your reward. This is a video of me on Slow Dance. I sent two weeks ago. Also, don't forget the checkout the new pics.



Got to go now, have to return to my scorecard (8a), someone might have get ahead of me so I will have to do some updates (cheat and lie).


Pepe out.


p.s. Josh and Chris, I have a profound respect for you guys.

7 comments:

Anonymous said...

slow dance, nice send, looks like a fun problem. WHAT'S THE GRADE?????

cheers to having a good day.

Anonymous said...

V10

Anonymous said...

pepe - have you been drinking?

Anonymous said...

v10???? i think it's only v9!!! Hell, back when i did it, we used to warm up on it. don't you warm up on it? You must not be in top shape yet?

s.

Dom said...

etienne. you rock!

Anonymous said...

Ça va Etienne? T'en fais pas y a toujours un petit morveu excité d'avoir pompé de la drenaline et ses gros pipes! C'est juste comique. C'est nous qui devenons vieux et grincheux.

J'envie ta situation le gros!

T'as l'air à bien pousser la machine. Continue, y a encore du steam dans les doigts!

D

JD LeBlanc said...

ET, i believe the 5 best climbers FULLY matters (the only reason to climb is to be the best ...)Fun and personal escape/boundaries? all about the grade and how quick and if i can do it before you ..
The Top 5 in AB: Knut, Kanut, Peter and Pete followed by Walson.