Chapter 12: Strength and the irrelevance of it...

Life seems to have this way of always keeping me centered with both feet on the ground although projects are falling one after the others. Yesterday, I found myself on top of Low Rider on the first go. Of course, I had worked the moves before. The link was smooth and fast. I was fulfill with the sense of empowerment and accomplishment. But one just can’t take himself seriously when next on the sending train is Gabriello Moroni linking the Sharma’s Traverse. Quite humbling I have to say.

So how those one climbing V12 makes strength irrelevant you ask? Gabriel's send just proves that strength and numbers are in direct relation? Sure they are. But what is also directly proportional and completely unjustified is the ego that some develop as they climb up the number scale.

Before we go any further, I have to stress that the intent of this post is by no meen to point the finger at specific individuals - Moroni is a very very nice guy -. Nop, it is only the result of various ridiculous observations made during the last few months.

Let's start with a simple question: Why do you climb? Really, what drives you to keep squeezing? Don't answer right away so you can read on. Take your time, write it down.
To each is own reasons. No judging here. But I feel that a lot of us, climbers, lost track of the fundamental aspects of climbing that made us go back, time after time, to the gym and local crags.

Not too long ago, I was surfing the Gripped.com blog. Following a post, one was asking '...who are the 5 best climbers in Alberta'. Couldn’t help but to shake my head asking "who really cares?". A few nights ago, sitting at my camp site enjoying the fire, one guy showed up and introduced himself. I asked how is day went. What followed was a spew of the names and numbers of what he sent but more so, what he wanted to work on without missing any of the grading. He then proceed to ask me what level I was climbing at??!!??

Dude, what I really wanted to know is if you enjoyed the day. Second, who cares at what level I climb at. Does it really matter who is better, if I sent in four or ten tries? What are you trying to do, size me up, get in direct competition with me? Let me tell you, you did not set the bar too high for yourself.

I wonder what happened to breathing fresh air, cracking jokes and laughing with friends, supporting each others in accomplishments and failures. When did it shifted to finding out who is the best, who climbs the strongest. When did a grading system went from being the reference of a challenge to a way of definition and getting visibility for oneself. Why searching to live in the eyes of others, to have your name whispered?

So you want a few free pair of shoes and a t-shirt, to be seen on 8a.nu, to have groupies, to get your pictures in magazines. Ok, to each is own. All I can say is that you are playing a game to which you've already lost. You will always seek the pipedream. You can train all your life and still, some punk will wake up one morning, buy a pair of Bufo's and will make you look like you don't even know how to walk. Back to the starting line pal. How futile your quest is I hope realizing you are.

I can already foresee my inbox being fielled with reply's of the type: Well, better to chase the dream then nothing. If you can't find a better climbing goal then that, let me help you.
What about something that goes in the way of trying to squeeze every ounce of potential out of yourself. Already doing so, here's the kicker: Do it for yourself. Not for the shoes, the ranking, others, but for you. Next time you send, don't tell anybody, see how it feels.

Sorry for the ranting, I just had to say it, the game is stupid. If you made it that far, here's your reward. This is a video of me on Slow Dance. I sent two weeks ago. Also, don't forget the checkout the new pics.

Got to go now, have to return to my scorecard (8a), someone might have get ahead of me so I will have to do some updates (cheat and lie).

Pepe out.

p.s. Josh and Chris, I have a profound respect for you guys.

Chapter 11: Encore une fois...

Et moi qui pensait que c'etait termine...Ben non!

Hier soir, on a eue droit a la tombee d'un melange de neige et pluie. Le tout s'est continue pendant toute la nuit pour cesser ce matin. C'etait pas chaud au reveil.

Vue qu'il n'y aurait pas de grimpe au menu aujoud'hui, Claudia a eue la super idee de se faire un dejeune de roi. Ben oui, avec un mercure vacillant autour du 0 degree, on s'est fait du pain doree. Pas pire notre affaire.

Qui est Claudia? Elle et son copain Ben on debarque a Bishop il y a environ 4 jours en compagnie du chien, Buddha. Ils sont aussi en vacance pour quelque mois. Encore une fois, on ne s'ennuie pas.


Demain, avec le retour du beau temps, on recommence a grimper si et seulement si monsieur meteo ne s'est pas trompe.

Au prochain post, je vous met des photos et un video.

Chapter 10: What a Saturday in the Buttermilks!

You know you are in for some action when Mike Doyle and Math Birtch are in town. The first one has is eyes on the Mandala and the second one, well, the sit down start to the same problem. Before we go any further, for those who do not know, Math Birtch is one of the English power house. I had the chance to see him hike the Mandala like I climb V2.

We all had are day figured out. Me, I was on a mission to rage on the Evilution. Absolutely stunning line at V10. A series of 5 long hard moves to a few good decent pulls all the way to the lip. I got the kick I was looking for. So nice to climb. Already tired from the previous day, I could only link 3 of the 5 moves. I will be back with a full thank of gaz, let me tell you.

As if I was not tired enough, I decided to try my luck 'Central Direct', 'Plain Drifter High' and 'babagump'. Sent none but had so much fun. Fore sure, they remain on the list of things to do.

With the sun getting behind the mountains, all gathered as the real show was about to start. The pads were set, Mike was going at it with his warm-up dance underneath the Mandala. And he went for it: the opening moves, the foot up, the reset, feet cut loose, the hard moves are done, now it is about keeping it together all the way to the top. Less then a minutes later, the celebration. Nice Mike, nice.

Now, Math Birtch sets up. He is not too happy, his starting holds are wet. Clear signs of disappointment from him and the crowd, the V14 ascent will have to wait.

Check out the new pictures of Math and Mike shoveling the top of the problem.

Of course, all the good things have to come to an end. My friends Karine and Jean-Huge are leaving. Can't really blame them. They are heading to New Zealand. Mike and Audrey are leaving as well, back to work. That has to hurt. As for me, it's been a month that I have left Calgary. I climbed lot's and my body is clearly tired. I will be taking it easy for the next 6 days. Folks, don't expect any sends. All I will do is a bunch of V0-V3, stretching and lot's of opposite muscle workout.

The white Mountains viewed from the Buttermilks.

And don't forget to check out the previous post. I was finaly able to upload some footage. Enjoy!

Chapter 9: Some Friday in the Buttermilks, I tell ya...

High all! Wow! The last two days of climbing been a blast. First, the temperature is perfect in the buttermilk but too warm in the Table Land. A bit of off roading is required to get up there. Imagine doing so with the minivan. Interesting. Friday morning, the crew gathered and warmed up at the Birthday boulder. Still fun to get your ass kicked by a V1 slab. A few try later, I was out of breath on top of the thing. Umm, how to get down now. Should had looked that up first. You learn really fast not to make that mistake again.

The air was crisp, finger pads thick, this is going to be good. We headed to Fly Boy for a quick onsight of the sit down start.


After a few good fly from the top, some members of the crew had enough of flying lessons. Time for the Bowling pin boulder. I was not going to put my shoes but the line was stellar. Quick warm up of the hands, a few hard pulls - harder then expected - and 'The ten pin trial' was dispatched flashed style. No footage for that one, Karine did not had time to take out the camera. Good thing cause you would hear some 'crying like a little girl' for the top out of that one. How do we come down now? Damn, I did it again.

Next on the list, soul slingner. This line is impressive and very intimidating to me. Three try later with some heel trickery of mine, I was on top.



This already amazing day could not be complete without attempting the soo popular 'High plain drifter'. Actually, the coming down is harder then the going up. Wooo, bring some crack climbing skill and a good set of nerves. I used to have the crack skills, umm, only left with the nerves...Yap, complaining their was.

Chapter 8: Le temps qui file.

Je m'excuse sincerement aupres de mes lecteurs francophones. Les derniers posts se sont fait seulement en anglais parce que je n'avais pas beaucoup de temps et que la connection internet tres mauvaise.

Bon, ou en etais-je. J'ai quitte Vegas au courant de la semaine passee pour cause de mauvais temps. J'ai pris la direction du sud, vers Phoenix. Bien entendu, et vous vous en doutez surement, il a pleue tout le long de la ride de char. J'ai dormis un petit deux heures avant de reprendre la route vers le nord et vers le froid: destination Bishop.

La premiere nuit fut tres froide mais la temperature s'est rechauffe graduellement depuis. Actuellement, le camping est tres agreable et les conditions sont ideals pour la grimpe pendant que tout le monde travaille.

Comme de fait, je me suis fait des amis (et retrouve d'autre) tres facilement. Je partage actuellement mon espace de camping avec Alex, un Danois de 19 ans, rencontre a Vegas. Tout a cote, aussi de Vegas, Rana et Thomas (a droite). On a bien du plaisir.

J'ai aussi fait la connaissance de Karin et Jean-huge. Deux Quebecois tres comiques aussi en vacance continue d'un an. Ils sont interessant a lire. Regardez leur blog, j'ai mis un lien a droite

De la gauche: Cody, Karyn, Jean-Huge, Alex aka The Kid.

Regardez aussi les nouvelles photos.

Aujourd'hui et demain, c'est journee de conge. Hier, on a tous eue une journee de grimpe exceptionelle: Tous les projets ont tombes. Ca ca veut dire que l'on a reussit a grimper les lignes qui nous font rever la nuit. Bon, umm, c'est pas bien bien plus clair. Demandez a Mathieu, il va vous expliquer. Je tenterai aussi d'ecrire un autre post sur la nature de faire du 'boulder'.

p.s. Dad, j'ai ajouter des photos du campground.
p.s.s. Je sympathise avec tout ceux qui se gelent le cul a Calgary.

Chapter 7: Resting at last...

Today is a rest day. Hard to admit you need one but your tips remind you so as soon as you touch something.

I was able to find a reliable internet connection. Check out the new picture set.

I know it is not much but it is cold and my camera is shy in such conditions. More will follow.

Tonight, hot springs....Ya baby!

Chapter 6: Back in Bishop!

If you want good climbing weather, make sure you don't bring me on the road with you.
The wind and the rain joined me in the capital of the slot machines. I guess not everybody's a winner like they say here. What can I do? It is snowing in Bishop, raining hard in Vegas, Utah is too cold and everybody left for Hueco. What about Phoenix? Weather looks solid and it's the home of the PBC (Phoenix Bouldering Competition).

So I packed the van. 7 hours later, I pull into the Oak Flats camp ground. It is 0 degrees out side, it is snowing/rainning and the weather man tells me it is suppose to last for 3 days. Ooo no!

Pissed off, I turned the van around and drove to Bishop. Overall driving time? You do the math.

I've been in Bishop for the last two days. It is very cold at night but superb climbing weather during daytime provide a down jacket and a thermost of tea. Manageable.
The good weather is suppose to stick for a while. Good. Finally, my luck (or lack of it) is turning. The Buttermilks are still not accessible. 4x4 with serious clearance is required. Let's give it a week or so.

Meanwhile, I am reapeting lot's of classic lines. I would like to provide pictures but the connection at the Looney Been is terrible. My upload to Flickr is constantly failing. Same with my 8a profile. Will have to do it via memory stick from the library. Tomorrow is a rest day, I will get on that.

Chapter 5: Vegas baby Vegas.

Vegas has been my playground for the last few days. I have to admit, I am impressed with the quality of the bouldering. Red Rock always been a prime sport climbing destination. With so many cool walls and lines to do, one can easily overlook the boulders on their way to 'Sunny and Steep'.

If you take the time to stop and explore a bit, you can find stellar lines. Anyway, enough to keep me busy for a week, while I figure out where I will be heading next.

I am looking for information and topo's for Turasik and Moe's Valley. If you know anything about it, send me a line.

I am also receiving lot's of emails from all of you. Sorry for not getting back promptly. I am having internet issues. When you are not paying for it, you can't complain too much. Keep writing, I will try my best to drop you a line or two.

E.