Tuesday, September 16, 2008
Chapter 50: They come and go / Ils arrivent et partent.
As I was cooking spaghetti sauce, Sarah and Chris showed up. A few good stories and a bottle of whine later, they are both down for the count. Jet lag and alcohol is a dangerous mix.
Tomorrow, I am meeting with one of the locals who's been cranking in Font. for 36 years. The Dude is in his sixties and pull harder then me. I just hope that he gets in a training session tonight or tomorrow morning so I can walk away with a little bit of pride left. Hope is all I have.
Anyway, the temps are good for cranking. Days are cool and nights are cold. The wind is blowing and we are not expecting rain till the end of the week. Perfect.
Ils sont venus et sont repartis. Actuellement, Mathieu est quelque part au dessu de l'ocean Atlantique alors que John est probablement revenue a Calgary.
J'etais tranquillement a cuisiner une sauce a spaghetti quand Chris et Sarah sont apparue de nul part. On va avoir du plaisir. Quelque histoires et une bouteille de vin plus tard, les deux nouveaux arrivants dorment a point, victime du decalage horaire.
Demain, j'ai rendez vous avec un local d'une soixantaine d'annee qui grimpe plus fort que moi. Je vais en avoir plein les bras et surement plus rien dedan demain soir. Je vous tiens au courant.
Friday, September 12, 2008
Chapter 49: Fontainebleau.
Yesterday, we visited the Fontainebleau castle. Exuberance and almost disgraceful display of richness awaited us. I'd love to show pictures but like I said earlier, my digital camera is no longer mine. O well. Anyway, many French monarch spent summers at the Font. 'secondary' residence. Learning about each one of them and there influence on the art work was very interesting. I kind of wonder what else the main castle has more then this one. I will make it to Verseille and let you guys know.
Back to the climbing now. As I expected it, bouldering in Font. is a mind numbing experience. With lines everywhere, you get on everything. Slightly overhanging boulders makes it all happen with the fingers. The style is unique, like I've never seen before. Not even 7 months of full time climbing can prepare you for it. All is to be learned from scratch. I got baffled on 5+/6a and pulled 7b+ in a few goes. It comes down to 'feeling' the problem. The bas cuvier is by far my favorite spot. I still have to visit l'elephant, les trois pignons, isatis, le cul du chien and so many more.
Bon, a date, la France joue dur sur le moral des combatants: On a un guerrier hors service, une camera digital en moins, 30 degree au mercure et une humidite comparable a la Thailand. Hier soir, il a plue a en remplir le canal du palais royal de Fontainebleau long the 1200m. John, un ami de Calgary, arrive aujourd'hui. J'espere qu'il nous amenera du beau temps dans ses bagages. Umm, il s'en vient de Londre donc faudra pas trop espere.
Hier, nous avons visite le chateau Royal de Fontainebleau. Richesse et exuberence a en perdre la raison. J'aimerais bien aime prendre des photos mais ma camera digital a trouve nouveau proprietaire. Bien entendu, fallait bien que je me la fasse vole. Bienvenue en France. Bon, peut importe. Plusieurs monarche Francais on reside au chateau tout au long de l'histoire. Il fut tres interessant d'apprendre comment chacun ont influence les courants artistiques des oeuvres d'art du chateau. Si Fontainebleau fut une 'residence' secondaire, je dois absolument alle faire un tour a Verseille.
Retour a l'escalade maintenant. Fontainebleau est absolument superbe meme si les conditions sont loins d'etre exceptionelles. Les blocs sont partout. Des lignes a profusions. Le style de grimpe est completement different de tout ce que j'ai vue jusqu'a date. Meme 7 mois de grimpe temps plein ne peuve preparer a ce qu'on retrouve ici. C'est une question de 'sensation'. On me l'avait bien dit mais bon, il faut en faire l'experience soit meme.
Tuesday, September 9, 2008
Chapter 47: The verdict / Le verdict.
Bon, et bien, rien de casse mais une tres tres mauvaise entorse pour le frere. Pas de grimpe pour longtemps. L'articulation est enorme et commence a prendre de belles couleurs. J'ai juste hate a demain, ca va etre encore plus abtrait.
Chapter 48: Here we go.../ On y va...
We are in France, my Bro. and I but not all are healthy: Second day, third problem, Math. mangled his right ankle. This morning, we are testing the French health care system. Will keep you all posted.
Bon, nous sommes en France mais la sante n'est pas au rendez-vous: Deuxieme jours de grimpe, troisieme probleme et le frere se defait la cheville. Ce matin, on fait un test du system de sante Francais. Je vous tiens tous au courant.
Saturday, August 16, 2008
Chapter 47: Not much to report / Pas grand chose de differents.
My shoulder is still bothering me. I made a lot of progress but all seems to stagnate at the moment. A bit frustrating. Anyway, I am still optimistic that it will be ready to go for France. That is in two and a half weeks. Wow, time goes by so fast.
Pas grand chose de nouveau en Suisse. Ca fait maintenant 4 jours en ligne qu'il pleut a boire debout. On nous annonce un peu de soleil pour demain. Quand les nuages se disperseront, on devrait voir du blanc sur les pics qui nous entourent. Il fait serieusement froid la nuit.
Mon epaule me fait encore souffrir et meme s'il faisait beau, je ne pourrais pas grimper. Les progres furent tres rapide au debut de la rehabilitation mais actuellement, le tout stagne. Un peu frustrant mais bon, qu'est-ce que je peux faire d'autre. Je reste optimiste et espere que le tout sera rentre dans l'ordre pour la France.
Wednesday, August 6, 2008
Chapitre 46: Happiness at work - Des gens heureux.
Sur l'heure du diner, les gars se font du B.B.Q. et entretiennent leurs 'jardin'.
This is a picture of the construction site not to far from are campground. The workers very pround of their profession. They are always smiling and saluting people driving by.
During lunch time, the boys are cooking on the B.B.Q and take care of the 'garden'.
Chapter 45: It had to happen...
When a climber is on the road, what is it that is harder to accept then a week of rain, happens when it is beautiful outside and makes minutes feels like hours?
Then answer: An injury.
I have to accept it, there is no other way around it. My left shoulder is very unhappy about it's working condition. I had to say, it's been pulling overtime since January. Of course, it complained a bit through the last six months but I decided to ignore the requests. At the moment, it is impossible for me to ignore the protest. It hurts, even at night.

O well, I remain optimistic. The plan is to get better before the troops from Calgary get to France for the final assault in Fontainebleau. I found an awesome physio who accepted to help me rehabilitate. I'll keep you posted.
Joined are a few pictures taken in Zurich.
Finally, here a super cool line that we found. We always walk right pass it. Last time around, we gave it a second look and decide to give it a go. So good.
Chapitre 45: Y fallait bien que ca arrive...
Pour un grimpeur en voyage, qu'est-ce qui est plus difficile a accepter qu'une semaine de pluie, se produit toujours quand il fait beau et transforme les minutes en heures?

La reponse, une blessure.
Je dois me resigner a accepter que mon epaule gauche est tres insatisfaite de ses conditions de travailles. Faut dire qu'elle a fait du supplementaire depuis la fin janvier. Bien sur, il y a eue plusieurs protestations tout au long des dernier six mois mais bon, j'ai fait que la sourde oreille. Actuellement, il m'est impossible d'ignorer ou de faire la sourde oreille: Ca fait mal, meme la nuit.

Bon, Je garde le moral. L'objectif est de guerir avant que les troupes de Calgary debarquent en France pour donner l'assault aux blocs de Fontainebleau. Je me suis trouver une super Physio qui m'aide dans ma rehabilitation. Je vous tiens au courant.
J'ai join quelque photos prisent lors de mon sejour a Zurich.

Ca, c'est Fay. Gros bebe gatee.
Thursday, July 31, 2008
Chapter 44: Grab it...
It is fantastic to be here, in Magic Wood, in Zurich, in Europe, in South Africa. It is fantastic to be on the road. I am overwhelmed by the amount of people that I meet, the experiences that I live each day. We all come from different countries, have different cultures, ways of doing and dialect. Each place has something to say, a part of history to tell.
With my left shoulder chronically un-happy, I am aware that my time here will soon come to an end. I do not know what life as planned for me in the future but right now, my van is my home and it is a great place to be. I cherish every moment whether it is spent with friends laughing, playing giant chess game in the park, bouldering in the Woods or reading inscriptions on status and monuments.
Till next week.
Thursday, July 24, 2008
Chapter 43: Un peu de tout...

Plus qu'un mois en Suisse. Ensuite, destination la France. J'y aie beaucoup d'amis - que j'ai rencontre on the road - qui m'y attendent deja. Encore une fois, on ne devrait pas trop s'ennuier.
Je suis encore a Magic Woods et je n'ai aucune intension d'aller voir ailleur. Les lignes sont toutes exceptionelles. J'en decouvre de nouvelles a chaque jour. Tellement que j'ai opter de diminuer le niveau de difficulte pour pouvoir en faire plus. J'avoue que la fatigue commence serieusement a prendre son compte. Avec le temps qui s'evapore, je suis loin de prendre le temps de repos necessaire. Aujourd'hui, j'ai bien tente d'alle faire quelque blocs mais il n'y avait rien a faire. J'ai due m'avoue vaincue et rebrousse chemin jusqu'au terrain de camping.

Je reviens tout juste du feu de camp ou des Autrichiens jouent de la guitare et chantent a s'en arracher les poumons. Les heures passent comme des secondes sont le charme des notes et du feu qui danse. Meme si le spectacle est quotidien, on ne s'en lasse jamais.
Il semble que le ciel n'aie plus d'eau a nous envoyer. Ca fait cinq jours que le soleil brille et on en profite tous. Les journees sont chaude mais les nuits tres froides, autour de 5 degres. Demain, je m'en vais m'acheter une couverture supplementaire, peu importe le prix.
Wednesday, July 23, 2008
Chapter 42:We have power!
This place is getting busier and busier with each passing week. It seems like the entire Europe is on vacation. Climbers come from everywhere. The Woods can easily accommodate all but I can't say the same about the campground. People have to pitch tents in the parking lot. With so many around, here are a few observations.
About Mullets:
They are back, in Europe anyway. It is the new fashion, specially in Spain and Poland. Cool! It is kind of a renaissance of the 80's and Wayne's World. One Polish guy - witch sadly left this morning before I could take a picture - pushed the envelope by combining a mullet with dreads. Yes, I know, it is hard to imagine but you can do it. Short on top with the long stick in the back...
About dreads:
Have you ever seen a dog with dreads?

About recycling:
I would expect Switzerland to be more incline to it then any other nations. After all, they monitor everything from consumption of clean water to waste water, gaz, electricity and garbage production. But we don't recycle. Nop, all goes to land fill, shame.
I owed you a few videos so no more of me and more bouldering.
Here is another. Nop, this is not Squamish.
Saturday, July 19, 2008
Chapter 41: Power issues...
Not in the finger but in the car. The cigarette lighter just gave up so I can't recharge the laptop. Doing my best to solve the problem.
Stay tune for more post.
Sunday, July 13, 2008
Chapter 40: 38 hours and counting...
So far, the "E. van of love" is working just fine and keeping me dry. These lines are written from inside of it at candle light with a pot of tea on the stove.
Here are a few videos shot in between thunder showers. Kudo to the climbers who still manage to send despite wet holds.
Some friends from Belgium. She'd been working the line for a while.
Chapter 39: Wow la Suisse!
Magic Wood, nom donner a l'endroit ou on grimpe, ressemble a s'y tromper avec Squamish. Andeer est le village le plus pres. Les rues y sont encore en pierre et les maisons paintes a la main. Je vous mets quelque photos bientot. L'approvisionnement en eau du village et du camping se fait a meme les ruisseaux qui coulent des montagnes environnantes.
Les villageois sont des gens tres fiers qui attachent un soins particuliers a conserver leurs coutumes et l'aspect rustique de l'endroit ou ils habitent. Je ne me surprend plus a voir un troupeaux de vaches - et elles ont tous une cloche au cou - se promener en avant de l'epicerie ou a etablir residence sur la seule route qui permet de traverser le village. Faut donc alle chercher le fermier proprietaire parce qui est le seule qui peu les faires bouger. Assez special comme experience.
Thursday, July 10, 2008
Chapter 38: The woods are magic!
It is fantastic. The forest is, well magic. If you've been to Squamish, you don't need to come here. No wait, you really need to come here. Although the forest looks exactly the same, the problems are so much better. The lines magnificent, everywhere. You just want to climb everything.
The landings you ask? This place makes Squamish landing look like a flat beach. You definitely need a lot of pads and spotter here. Wondering on your own is almost impossible.
Ok, a bit about the logistic now. Magic Woods is in the complete nowhere. They dont even sale ice at the grocery store. Finding an Internet connection is even more of a mission impossible. What I was able to get cost 1$ a minute. Better not make any typing mistake. Since it is very expensive, I will try to keep up with the weekly video and to answer you all, even with very short words so keep on writing.
The next post will be in french so no bitching Dom. It will give you an opportunity to learn the language of love.
I should stay here for a month or two, if it does not rain too much. Since I got here, all I can say is that I wish I brought my rubber boots. Kind of hard to go cranking in the rain. But we manage. It makes for great stories I tell you.
Saturday, June 28, 2008
Chapter 37: Le E van!
A tout mon public francophone, ca faisait longtemps qu'on ne s'etait pas jase.
Je suis presentement a Amsterdam. Je dors et me repose dans un auberge de jeunesse a l'exterieur du centre ville. La ville est a 20 minutes de metro/bus.
C'est tout simplement magnifique. L'architecture est exceptionel. Les building font 4 etages maximum. Les style se suivent, s'amalgament, forment un tout, un agencement de couleurs, de lignes continues, un spectacle visuel fascinant.
La ville est aussi tres propre. Pas d'ordures, de dechets, de papier sur le trottoir, rien. Pas de smog non plus. Les gens vont travailler en metro et a velo. Assez impressionant, il y a des velos partout et en plus, ils ont la priorite.
Autre fait etonnant, il y a de l'eau partout. Amsterdam se trouve a un altitude qui est situe sous le niveau de la mer. Ils ont batit des digues sur tout le long de la cote. Lorsque la maree monte, les canaux interieurs sont noye, creant des vois de transport tres utilise. Des gens vont meme jusqu'a vivre en permanence sur des bateaux.
Hier, je suis alle chercher mon Westfalia. Un Volkwagen 1985.

Ca se conduit comme un autobus. Un peu bizarre au debut mais on s'y fait. Tellement qu'on aime. Je peux comprendre le culte. Parce que le Westfalia compte des adeptes a travers le monde. Au moins, la transmission comporte 5 vitesses et le radio a ete chage. Je peux donc syntoniser les postes de radio et faire jouer mon Ipod. Il y a aussi le grand luxe: Table et cuisine interieur avec deux bruleurs et lavabo.

Je partirai probablement demain matin en direction la Suisse. Le tout devrait prendre 8 heures en passant par l'Allemagne. Je me rend dans une petite ville de montagne appele Ausserferrera. Serieux, pas de farces. Voici un lien, vous pouvez voir l'itineraire et ou ca se trouve.
Friday, June 27, 2008
Chapter 36: AmsterDam!
Wow, this place is cool! I've been walking around for the last 3 days. Today is rest, weird to say that you need a rest from walking.I've seen some great things so far: De Nieuwe Kerk ( the new chuch- www.nieuwekerk.nl ), the Van Gogh Museum ( www.vangoghmuseum.nl ), the Red Light district with it's windows, the parks and squares and much more. The Rijksmuseum is definitely on top of the list with the famous story high 'Night Watch' piece by Rembrandt.
The city is amazingly clean. Streets are free of garbage. People here go about their daily businesses on bikes. Put the kids in the front basket, the groceries in the back and there they go. No smog.
The architecture live up to the expectations. Beautiful in every way: The lines, styles, colors and carvings. Most buildings don't exceed 4 stories high. Water canals spread across the city like a giant web.
Boats are a way of transportation and housing for some. Mature trees provide shadings throughout the city. Stone paved little alleys filled with artisans, pubs, coffee shops and street entertainers make up most of the old down town. Wondering around markets and squares, sitting on benches, sipping on a Lattes, I could do just that for a while.

I have to admit, I always thought of myself as being into 'brunette' but since I am here, I'm developing a strong interest in 'blond with blue eyes'. They are everywhere!
Today, I am picking up the 'E van of love'. Tomorrow is shopping for pots, pans, plates and all one's need on the road. I should be getting on the road to Switzerland Sunday or Monday morning.
Tuesday, June 17, 2008
Chapter 35: Farewell!
Till the next post, here is one of the Frenchies, Raphael, linking the 'Arch babysitter' with a price tag of V8.
Enjoy!
Wednesday, June 11, 2008
chapter 34: Magical 'cedar spine' arrete.
It is raining again today. Yesterday, I was able to capture this video of are Spanish friend Tonyo sending 'Cedar Spine arrete'. One of the most beautiful line of the place.
Sadly, the Frenchies from Font. are leaving tomorrow. We all agreed to open another bottle of whine once reunited in France.
I also open an email account with Yahoo since hotmail had become completely un-reliable. Some of you wrote me, I replied but most of you did not get it. Hopefully, we will be more lucky in the future. Here is the address: etienne_hubert_poirier@yahoo.com.
Finally, if you had enough of those annoying 'brand-power' advertisement on tv, well, we have it too in South Africa. Can't watch the news without being told that 'Coco-Puff' cereals are part of a complete breakfast. It is a world wide take over.
chapter 33: Breaking it again.
Hopefully, it wont be the last. Nothing else to say, nothing else to show.
More to come soon.
