Sunday, January 27, 2008

Chapter 4: Chasing or being chased...

We are running for the sun but the rain is always catching up.

Well, it seems that way. So much happened since the last post. It all started in Bishop on Thursday the 24th when I woke up with 5 cm of snow on the ground. Not good. The Calgary crew (Simon, Luke, Josh) flew in on the 23th and landed in Vegas. The tried to reach Bishop but were force to take a motel on the way due to a complete white out.

We finally met in the Happy’s with a chilling 0 degrees and blowing wind. You know it is cold when the sun in shining and nothing is melting. We still climbed (flailed) for a few hours before calling it quit.

In front of a warm cup of coffee, the decision was unanimous: We pack it all and head to Joshua Tree.

Joshua Tree National park…Mystical and magical place. Impossible to describe. I don’t have the words. The U2 album of the same name inspired from in? Maybe. From the minute you get in the park, you are amazed by the beauty of the land. The shapes, forms, trees (cactus?!). Like walking on a different planet.

And so was the climbing. I heard many time about the ‘style’ of climbing of J.T. The definition of a ‘boulder problem’ takes a hole new meaning. Used to crank V8-9 in a few tries, you end up racking you brain on finding out how to get on top of this ridiculous piece of rock.

We tried most of the classics: Smoking traverse, Street car name desire, stem gem, planet X, chilli sauce and sooooo many others. Are bodies are used and abused. Not complaining but are shoes are. The rock is so abrasive that you can go through a pair in few days. Josh and I have huge puncture holes on are right shoes from trying Street car.

The beating is well worth. When success comes, you get the feeling of achievement that is the same of toping out a project you’ve been working for weeks. Tips are soar but not so much compare to the palms, shoulders, backs, abs, legs, well, everything. Just like kids in a play ground, we also found many other ways to hurt are self: Climbing the J.T. trees, running straight in cactuses (don’t ask), spilling coffees and so on.

But again, the rain and the bad weather caught on to us. Last night, we packed it all and drove to Vegas (not again, sigh). We drove fast but not enough. This morning, it is raining. WhatYaGonnaDo? Take a rest day! Sweet. We’ve been climbing for the last four days.

I am doing this post from the Laundromat. After, it will be Starbuck and walking the strip. Hopefully, we will climb tomorrow. If it does not look better, we are heading back to Moe’s Valley in Utah.

Wednesday, January 23, 2008

Chapitre 3: Le county d'Inyo.

J’y suis arrive!

Il fait froid, tres froid. Difficile de se rechauffer et surtout, de faire des problemes difficiles. Je fais donc du millage.

Ce matin, on s’est reveille avec de la neige au sol. Plusieurs semble avoir eue tres peur puisque nous ne sommes maintenant plus que 5 au camping.

Le paysage qui nous entoure est encore plus magnifique que l’annee derniere. Les pics sont tous blancs. J’essaie de prendre des photos mais ma camera n’aime pas du tout le froid. Va falloir revoir.

Aujourd’hui est jour de conge. Principalement parce que la temperature oblige mais aussi parce que j’ai des amis de Calgary qui devrait se pointer ce soir et rester pour une semaine.

Je vous tiens au courant.

p.s. Ce matin, il faisait -7 degres dans la van...

Chapter 3: Inyo county.

I made it all right!

This is the second day climbing. It is very very cold down here. Hard to get anything going. No pictures yet cause my camera refuses to work with the temperature, even with bran new batteries. Speaking of pictures. Anybody know a good picture editing software that I could download for FREE? Send me an email or post it. That would be really nice.

Back to climbing now. Sending lot's of classic problems. Check out the 8a card for more details. Not too many people to play with. All have left for Hueco or J.T. This morning in the pit (campground), only 5 others soar climbers dare facing the storm that rolled in last night. Forgot to mention, we woke up with snow on the ground.

Tomorrow is a rest day. The tips need to get back to full capacities before the gang from Calgary gets here.

More posting to follow.

p.s. Last night, it was -7 in the van....

Saturday, January 19, 2008

Chapitre 2: En route vers le paradis...

Bon, j’ai quitte Calgary autour de 9:40 ce matin. Il avait enfin cesse de neiger. Trop beau pour durer. Aux limites de la ville, je me suis fait attrapper par une belle grosse tempete. Tout etait blanc jusqu’a quelque pied en avant de la voiture.

L’avantage de voyager par mauvais temps est que la majorite de la population prefere rester a la maison plutot que d’aller depenser son argent aux States. En arrivant aux lignes, il n’y a que 9 voitures en avant de la mienne. Bon, ca devrait etre expedidif que je me dit. Une heure plus tard, c’etait a mon tour d’avoir un entrevue prive avec le bonhomme. 15 minutes plus tard, le gars se rend compte que mon histoire est legitime et me laisse continuer sans que j’ai a converser avec sa gang de chum a l’interieur. Sweet! Ca faisait longtemps que ce n’etait pas arrive ca.

Le Montana tout en blanc, c’est magnifique. Avant, j’y avait toujours conduit en automne. L’hivers offre un tout autre spectacle. C’est a voir pour ceux qui ont du temps.

J’ecris actuellement a partir de ma confortable chambre 5 etoiles du Dodge’Inn a Dillon. Vous devriez voir ca : Matela Suedois Therma-Rest, edredon synthetic/duvet MEC, eau en bouteille et vue imprenable sur le stationnement du Comfort Inn Motel. Pour le prix, difficile a battre.

Demain, un autre 10 heures de conduite m’attend. Je devrais me rendre jusqu’a Ely. Toute petite ville sur la frontiere entre le Nevada et la Californie. Il y a une grosse ligne blanche en plein milieux de la rue principale. D’un cote, la debauche avec les casinos, les bars et les danseuses. De l’autre, la religion ultra conservatrice avec ses nombreuses eglises et ‘minister’. Paradox ultra interessant.

Et surtout n’oubliez pas d’ecouter la radio local. ‘...Praise de Loooord....’

Chapter 2: On the way to heaven...

So I left Cow-Town at around 9:40am. Clouds were menacing but still holding. By the city limits, it was a full white out which would follow me all day.

The cool thing about bad road conditions is that people tend to stay home as opposed to go shopping across the border. There was nobody on the road. At the crossing: 9 cars in front of me. That should go fast that I tell myself. Ya right. An hour later, it is my turn to go for the full interrogation. After chatting with the guy for about 15 minutes, he figures that my story is legit, hand my paper and let me go. Sweet! This time, I did not have to go inside to explain myself.

Montana is beautiful when dressed in white. The snow kept falling till about an hour ago. I am writing these words straight from my private 5 star room at the Dodge’ Inn in Dillon. You guys should see the room. Ho! Exotic Swedish Therma-Rest mattress technology, bottle water, thick and comfy MEC synthetic/down quill. For the price, hard to come by.

Another 10 hours awaits me tomorrow. I should make it to Ely, right on the border of Nevada and California.